By Roberto Brown
A weekend that started with a visit to the market in El Valle to buy the legendary black earth that makes plants bloom and gardens flourish became a discovery tour of fine dining, music and rejuvenation.
My companions for the day were two beautiful blondes – Kathy and Yolanda – seeking a break from the heat of the beaches. Sometimes my job just sucks, but I manage to brave through it.
The morning began with a relaxed drive through the valley, stopping at Bambusillo Art Gallery, then the El Valle Gourmet Coffee shop for an expresso, and then on to the famed farmer’s market.
No trip to The Valley would be complete without a stop at Ty’s Sports Bar for refreshments and the hospitality of Ty and Michelle Miller – two Pana Canadians who now run the best sports bar in The Valley, and make a fantastic burger. Plasma screens, karaoke machines and great rock ‘n roll music makes this place hop almost every night. Rumor is that Ty’s Sports Bar franchises may be popping up in other areas of Panama soon. It is easy to find – right on the main Street next to Melo and Digicel shops.
Rain stopped our visit to the El Nispero animal sanctuary, with its collection of rescued exotic birds and animals, an home to the El Valle Amphibian Conservation Center working to save the endangered golden frog.
Dinner had been reserved at one the most favored restaurants in El Valle Restaurante Brushetta, recently moved to its new located in the Anton Valley Hotel, across the street from the church, just down from the market. (6518- 4416)
Self-taught chef/owner Mario Mata is as charming as he is talented. He is a consummate host, making every guest feel at home as he deftly introduces guests to each other, helping visitors make new friends.
But it’s in the kitchen that his star shines the brightest. He is a man who cooks with passion, and his subtly spiced and complex combinations surprise and tantalize the taste buds. He genuinely delights in pleasing his discerning customers.
The starting signature brushetta of diced – not crushed- tomatoes, olive oil, garlic and spices on a specially-made fresh flat bread was a meal in itself.
Our main dishes were to die for. (Mata means ” he kills”) as, Mario served up the best stuffed garlic lagostinos I have ever tasted
Kathy’s garlic pesto pasta was perfectly, fresh and delicious. Yolanda had a wonderful fillet of sea bass still swimming in garlic and olive oil.
Despite protests of diets and being sated, Mario presented us with a caramel cheesecake flan and three spoons, with a delightfully light caramel sauce. I’m told they serve this exact dish at the gateway to heaven.
Our night was not over yet as we were welcomed to La Casita de Don Daniel. A beautiful home overhanging the river with overnight camping, a dining room, a pool table and a bar. Follow the main road out of town towards the waterfall. Look for the guitars on the La Casita pointing the way.
Even a power failure and heavy rains could not dampen the spirit of the crowd. The drummers drummed and the people sang in the darkness as candles were lit to add to the magic of the night.
As the lights went out at Don Daniel, we headed back to the Yoguini Spa unquestionably the highlight of our trip. Upon arrival we were greeted by the lovely Julissa and seated on comfortable leather couches on the patiowhere we were served served calming chamomile and honey tea.
Whatever stress the beaches may have created in my guests was washed away by the soothing sounds of new age music . We are then shown to our suite ($150 per night which includes a gourmet dinner and delicious fresh-fruit breakfast.
Host Michael began with a beautiful patio-side serenade on the piano of music he composed.
He has developed his own style of healing massage and offers an unusual twist – a four hand massage, together with his assistant, Julissa.Kathy and I both elected to get the four-hand healing yoga massage while Yolanda a book during the two a half-hour experience. The candle-light and soft music may have seemed like a recipe for napping, but Michael’s incredible twisting, stretching and deep tissue massage was not conducive to sleep in spite of the additions of softly tinkling bells, the sound of waterfalls, the smell of scented oils and the soothing music- but it did what previous trips to a chiropractor were not able to do – relieve two months of lower back pain.
I have never had massage done to the rhythm of music before It was an experience to be savored and remembered
Deep breathing helped calm me as Michael worked out the rock-hard knots in my calf muscles. It took fifteen minutes to unlock the cramp in just one of my legs Positive endorphins flooded my mind. My body began to seep into the massage table and become one with the furniture. It was one of the most decadent, relaxing and therapeutic massages I have ever had. At $120 worth every cent.
It is more than just music that is alive in El Valle. The whole valley buzzes with interesting activities, great food, gorgeous sights and welcoming people.
Where to stay
Yoguini Spa: Suite $150, land line 908-7117 cell phone 6150 8083
Anton Valley Hotel: (call for rates) 983-6097
Crater Valley Hotel: ($98 – $126) 983-6942
La Casita de Don Daniel 6615-5511 (camping $5 per night, includes your tent and mattress)
Hostal Cariguana: $27.50 for 2 people.