New Marina Opens on Panama’s Bastimentos Island

Cruisers’ Hangout — Kayuko’s is a waterfront eatery popular with visiting boaters, under a huge palapa roof overlooking Red Frog Beach Marina. It serves and economical breakfast, lunch and dinner for two hours each, all week — and the shady lounge is open all day with Wi-Fi and game tables.

Today, most of Isla Bastimentos and its surroundings are part of a 32,000-acre park that preserves not only coral reefs and mangroves, but also towering “primary growth” rain forest trees and many rare jungle species — including the poisonous Red Dart Frog.
The north shore of Isla Bastimentos takes the brunt of Caribbean trade winds and breaking waves, so it’s long been a major surfing destination. Backpackers come over by water taxi to hike the island’s trails and tent-camp in jungle clearings.
But Bastimentos Island also shields the navigable waters of Chiriqui Lagoon and Bahia Almirante, plus the marinas on Bocas del Toro and Careening Cay. The only location for an oceangoing yacht marina is on the sheltered southeast shores, just outside the park boundaries.
Red Frog Beach Marina opened its first 40 eco-friendly slips this summer. They have no pilings — just a unique anchoring system that doesn’t harm the nearby coral. Those slips were immediately filled, so another 60 slips are under construction this month.
Approach the marina by way of Bocas del Toro Channel between Isla Carenero and Isla Bastimentos, then turn east before you reach Cayo Nancy. Minimum water depth in the marina is 18 feet at mean low water (MLW). Shore amenities include laundry facilities and hiking trails that crisscross the jungle-covered hills. Several small villages dot the island, mostly built on stilts over the tranquil lagoons.
Red Frog Beach Marina has two interesting eateries: Kayuko’s and Palma de Roca. Boaters hang out mostly in the informal Kayuko’s, under a huge palapa-roofed gazebo perched on a jungle hillside overlooking the marina.
Kayuko’s menu sticks to economical breakfast (fruit, eggs, thick bakery breads), sandwich lunches (whole-grain breads, sliced deli meats) and early dinners of juicy burgers and fresh fish plates (with seafood so fresh, it’s practically caught before your eyes).
Kayuko’s closes at dark — part of the natural ambiance of an eco resort. Boaters don’t seem to mind, and they appreciate the low prices. Kayuko’s gazebo also serves as a daytime hangout with lounging couches, Wi-Fi Internet service for customers’ laptops, a giant chessboard, ping-pong tables and a swimming pool.
Palma de Roca is located on the famous Red Frog Beach, voted one of Panama’s most picturesque locations. Wooden boardwalks lead you down to the beach and around the jungle perimeter. At the front of the restaurant, you’ll see a young palm tree growing right out of a big volcanic rock — hence the name Palma de Roca.
Most of the menu comes from an open-air grill. It includes fresh fish and a wide variety of seafood, grilled and fresh vegetables grown on the island, and coffee roasted in nearby Bocas del Toro. Palma de Roca is romantic and moderately priced — making it a nice spot for a night out, without leaving your island hideaway.
For an approach chart, GPS positions, rates and reservations for Red Frog Beach Marina, visit redfrogbeach.com and click “Marina.”