(Des Moines Register) Some have asked my husband, Tim, and me why we chose to vacation in Panama earlier this year, maybe thinking it an unlikely destination. But there we found the perfect combination of cosmopolitan city and primal jungle.
We planned a tour to one of the indigenous tribes in Panama. Our tour guide, Garceth Cunampio (www.emberatourspanama.com), is an Embera Indian who attended Oregon State University, which made him the perfect guide because he spoke Embera, Spanish and perfect English. The tour included a 1-hour drive into the jungle and a 45-minute ride via canoe (made of a hollowed-out tree).
We were welcomed by music at the Embera Drua Village. We listened to a talk about the community and its way of life. The people are dedicated to caring for their environment. They offered us lunch, freshly caught tilapia and plantains – it was delicious. The women did their “Dance of the Orchid” as the men played instruments. We purchased the woven plates that the women are known for. The families use this money to educate their children.
When it was time to leave, Garceth and our guides had a surprise. They docked the boat and led us into the jungle. The hike lasted 15 minutes and we were blown away when we reached a magnificent waterfall. We were all alone in the jungle, swimming in spring water.
Up next was Monkey Island. We informed the guide we had sneaked some bananas onboard. He scattered them onto the front of the boat, and right away, monkeys dived onto the canopy of the boat. White Faced Capuchin monkeys were everywhere. The most amazing sight was a mother with her baby.
Our next destination was downtown Panama City. We had read that it was comparable to New York City, and it was. We arrived at our hotel and off we went to Marea, a ceviche bar that chef and author Anthony Bourdain had visited.
We also visited the Miraflores Locks of the Panama Canal, an engineering wonder, and Panama La Viejo “Old Panama”- ruins from a pirate attack that destroyed the city in the 1600s – which is located in the suburbs of the modern city.
White Faced Capuchin moneys on Monkey Island (one a mother with her baby) dove onto the canopy of the boat to enjoy bananas the Bogolins snuck onto the boat.
We spent most of our time in Casco Viejo, originally built and settled after the destruction of Old Panama, where we found cheap drinks, mouthwatering food and spectacular architecture. Two restaurants we recommend are Monolo Caracol and Super Gourmet. Monolo was a flavorful experience we will never forget: Ten courses of Spanish spices blended with French perfection. Super Gourmet is owned by a man who lost everything in Katrina. He had the most delectable sandwiches and the coldest beer.
Located nearby was Mercado del Marisco (fish market – another Bourdain recommendation). In the restaurant upstairs, if you don’t find something to your liking on the menu, buy a fish and they will cook it for you.